Six years after opening The Granary ’Cue & Brew, Tim Rattray knew something had to change. Sure, he was hailed nationally by Esquire as the “future of barbecue” for transforming post-oak smoke into a sophisticated ingredient in a culinary repertoire. The acclaim led to a full dining room and visits from chefs around the country who came in to produce special dinners. The restaurant was cruising comfortably. But for Rattray, it was almost too comfortable.